The Chochołowska Valley: where to go beyond the mountain hut

The Chochołowska Valley starts practically at our gate, as Witów lies at its mouth. It is our guests' most common first choice, and also the place where it is easiest to make the same mistake as everyone else: walk to the hut, eat a placek pancake, turn back.

In fact the hut on Polana Chochołowska is less a destination than a junction. Several routes of quite different difficulty fan out from it, from an hour's climb to a full-day expedition. Below are all the options worth considering.

The Chochołowska Valley in figures

Getting there, parking, and how to avoid the crowd

The way into the valley starts at Siwa Polana, a few minutes by car from Kojsówka. And here comes the problem anyone who has come on a summer weekend knows: the car park fills up before midday, and in the crocus season earlier still.

Staying in Witów changes that. Setting off straight after breakfast means being in the valley before the queue of cars builds, and coming back before the afternoon peak. Guests who take a bike have it simpler still: they ride to the start of the trail without getting into the car.

Option 1: the valley floor alone

The walk to the hut and back is about four hours in total, on a wide and level track. There are no climbs to surprise anyone, which makes it the best choice for the first day of a stay, for an outing with small children, and for a day when the weather is uncertain.

In spring, usually at the turn of March and April, the clearings in the valley fill with crocuses. It is the busiest moment of the whole season. Then it is worth setting off really early or, conversely, going late in the afternoon, when most visitors are already on their way back.

Option 2: Grześ, the shortest way onto the ridge

From the hut, Grześ takes about 1 hr 30 min. It is the shortest way from Polana Chochołowska onto a ridge with views, and the natural extension of a walk along the valley floor for anyone who wants to see more than forest and clearings.

From the ridge the Western Tatras look quite different from how they do below, and in good visibility you can see the Slovak side too. The walk can be extended towards Rakoń and on to Wołowiec, but that is a decision for the day itself, depending on the weather and how much is left in your legs.

Option 3: Trzydniowiański Wierch

The trail from the hut takes about 2 hr 20 min. It is a route for people who walk regularly and want to spend the whole day in the mountains. The summit is outstandingly scenic, and the climb goes through open pasture, so the panorama is with you almost the whole way.

Adding the walk to the hut and back, allow a full day. With a plan like that it is worth leaving Kojsówka right after breakfast and getting back well before dusk.

Option 4: Wołowiec and the high peaks

Wołowiec is the best-known summit in this part of the Western Tatras and the most common objective for people who come to the Chochołowska with a definite plan. The climb needs good fitness and a whole day, and in bad weather conditions on the ridge can change abruptly.

In its upper part the valley branches into the Starorobociańska, Chochołowska Wyżnia and Jarząbcza valleys, from which further trails lead on, including towards Starorobociański Wierch, the highest peak in this part of the Tatras. That is material for a separate, early start.

Option 5: crossing into the Kościeliska Valley

The most interesting option for anyone who dislikes going back the same way. From the Chochołowska a crossing leads over Iwaniacka Przełęcz (1,461 m) straight into the Kościeliska Valley. The climb from the forester's lodge in the Chochołowska takes about 1 hr 30 min, and the descent from the pass to the hut on Hala Ornak about 50 min.

The result: in one day you walk both of the largest valleys in the Western Tatras. You do have to solve the question of getting back, though, because you come out at Kiry rather than Siwa Polana. The simplest thing is to arrange a lift, or return by bus or taxi.

Option 6: winter

In winter the valley floor becomes a cross-country skiing route and a destination for sleigh rides, and the hut is open all year. It is one of the few Tatra destinations that stays accessible in winter to people without mountaineering equipment.

The higher ground is another matter: the routes to Grześ, Wołowiec or Trzydniowiański Wierch need winter experience, equipment and a look at the avalanche bulletin. If in doubt, stay low; the valley looks its best then anyway.

Practicalities: tickets, dogs, food

• The valley lies within Tatra National Park, so an entrance ticket is required; check the current prices on the park's website before setting off.
• Dogs are not allowed in the park. For guests travelling with animals we suggest the trail up Magura Witowska instead, which lies outside the park.
• The hut on Polana Chochołowska serves hot food, but in season expect a queue.
• There is no shop on the route; water and something to eat come up with you.
• Leaving the marked trail is forbidden in the park; that includes cutting the zigzags.

Back in Witów

Coming back from the valley, you pass Kojsówka practically on the way. The usual shape of our guests' day is this: back in the early afternoon, the hot tub heating for the evening, dinner off the barbecue and a fire afterwards. If the weather has turned, the Chochołowskie Thermal Baths are a few minutes away by car.